Prickly Bay, Grenada - 5 days at sea
In total:
62 days since leaving home
40 days at sea
5 700 nm
10 000km
The morning we departed Isle du Salut the sky was dark and threatening, raindrops started to fall as we picked up anchor. We had checked the weather and all the gribs stated that it wouldn't last long and the wind direction should be fine. We soon realised that the gribs were wrong, very, very wrong. The wind was 180* out the other direction.
Within half an hour of us leaving the island, the rain was pouring from the dark skies. The seas were manageable with swells of 2 to 3 meters, winds gusting 15 - 20 knots. Nothing a Capetonian sailor can't handle. That having been said, it was one of the hardest days of the trip so far as the rain didn't stop for more than 12 hours.
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| Dark and Stormy |
Andrew stayed up in the cockpit all day and well into the night. Our Bimini is not waterproof and the water leaks like a sieve into the cockpit. It puddles on the starboard seat and as the boat lurched from side to side it would splash down into the cockpit sole. Everything got wet but strangely the air temperature was still warm. We had leaks in places we never thought would leak. The whole of the starboard side seemed to get wet inside the lockers with bowls in the galley cupboards half full of salt water and packets of pasta and legumes damp and sticky. Laura had water dripping on her head in her cabin on the port side, so she went to sleep on our bed. We had done the chain plates before we left Cape Town but the stress on them over the past month must have moved them slightly. With waves crashing onto the deck sometimes up to the dodger, water crept into any crack or crevice and made its way inside the boat.
The wind calmed down slightly by the time I came on watch at 10:30PM. I had managed to get a bit of sleep before coming on watch but I was still exhausted. Andrew went down below and collapsed in the saloon where he got some much needed shut eye.
We didn't have that much rain again on the trip, although we had several squalls which passed through, some more fierce than others. We also had some sunshine which helped to dry things out a bit before the next squall hit.
We didn't take many photos during this trip but did manage to capture one of a stowaway.
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| Resting stowaway |
Andrew and I spent a lot of time talking about what we would have done differently with the knowledge we now have. We decided that there weren't many things to change, however, we would have liked to have had more time to test the batteries. Yes, batteries still. Although we decided that living on the boat in Cape Town we would not have used the batteries in the same way as we have sailing across the ocean. Shore power would have been available and probably used to top up batteries.
Although I thought I had done a fairly good job at provisioning, I should have taken more flour, wine and pasta sauces. We didn't drink alcohol on the passage, but later I will lament the price of wine in Grenada. I had plenty of dry pasta - thanks Toni. We certainly hadn't gone hungry, but we had to break our low carb diet as eating meat and salad/veg every day was not sustainable. Sadly we had to throw some of our meat away. I blame the fact that we had to turn the fridges off. I'm sure we ate some meat that was frozen and semi defrosted several times. We lived to tell the tale!
My methods of storing fresh goods seemed to work well. Carrots stored in tin foil lasted quite a long time although I had to keep an eye on them to make sure none were rotten and remove the rotten ones before they infected the rest. I kept the potatoes away from the onions. The onions and butternut lasted the longest. We ate gem squash that had turned bright yellow and I cut the bad bits off carrots and cabbages before cooking them. I didn't coat the eggs in anything and we had a few rotten ones along the way. Nothing worse than a rotten egg smell first thing in the morning.
On our fourth day at sea the wind dropped at daybreak. We were moving at about 4 knots with the main sail flogging from side to side. It is nerve wracking and irritating, never mind worrying about what is breaking in the process. We already had one broken baton in the main and didn't need more.
We realised we had some airtime on the Iridium Go, so we phoned Matt to chat. It was very surreal, having a chat with him while we were in the middle of nowhere, closer to the Caribbean than Cape Town. There was a huge delay on the line which made the call quite difficult. I thought the line had dropped or Matt was thinking about what to say but it actually was a delay in transmission. It was so good to talk to him and hear his voice.
We continued to make very slow progress as the wind refused to pick up. I'm sure I have said this before but Calypso does not like light winds. She loves a good 15 - 20 knots, speeding along and slicing through the waves. There is nothing more frustrating that knowing you are near your destination but there is NO WIND and you are creeping along at snail's pace.
We eventually decided to start the motor and motor sail which we ended up doing for quite a while, turning off the motor when the wind picked up a little bit. We passed a fishing boat which we thankfully saw before hitting him. He was fishing and in no mood to move out of our way.
Finally on 26 April, between the raindrops, mist and clouds, we spotted land. Thankful and exhausted we dropped anchor in Prickly Bay, Grenada at 11:30 am.
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Grenada
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Mooring field
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Beach days
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We had been told that we couldn't check in to Grenada in Prickly Bay anymore. The office had been closed during Covid and hadn't reopened. We had to go to St Georges to check in. So instead of checking in straight away, we went to Prickly Bay Marina and sampled the rum and beers.
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| Justen and Elric and Wi-Fi |
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| Very happy Dave |
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| Prickly Bay Marina |
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| It looks more welcoming at night |
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Laura sending voice notes to friends
Siobhan deciding which cocktail to choose |
While we were there we met a couple Ian and Faye, from SA on their cat Gumbar, who very kindly gave us some EC so that we could catch a bus to Port Louis to check in. Thank goodness for fellow Saffas! We were wondering how we were going to get to an auto bank to draw money.
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Ian and Faye
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The following morning we walked up the road in search of the bus. Next thing a minibus taxi pulls up next to us. Not expecting the bus to look very much like a taxi back home, complete with the Gaaitjie hanging out the door yelling at us asking if we want a ride, we got in with trepidation. The music was turned up to full volume as the driver headed down Maurice Bishop Highway at breakneck speed. This road is the only long, straight road in Grenada and locals take advantage of this, using it as a race track. Nervously we asked a fellow passenger if this was indeed a bus. In the weeks that followed we became quite adept at catching the bus, handing over our fare and knocking on the side for the driver to stop when we reached our destination.
We checked into the country at Port Louis Marina. We were given 3 month visas to stay in the country and 1 month sailing permit both of which are renewable.
The next couple of days were a whirlwind of places and people. We spent a lot of time at Prickly Bay Marina and spent a lot of money of food and beer there until we realised we would have to cut back, otherwise we would be back in South Africa in 6 months with no money!
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| View from The Sand Bar |
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| Beach relax |
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| Laura |
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| Justen, Andrew and Laura |
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| Sand Bar view - not too shabby |
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| Beach walks |
The Sand Bar became our favourite local, where we could sit with our toes in the sand, watch the sunset and have a few beers and cocktails during happy hour.
We also discovered The West Indies Beer Co. Brewery where we tasted good beers and spent a few Sundays watching the Grand Prix and drinking beer, of course.
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| Cheers |
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| He liked this one - Humdinger |
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| Beer being brewed behind the bar |
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| Interesting table |
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| Beer menu |
It rained a lot during the first week of arriving in Prickly Bay. The locals said that it was unusual as the rains should only arrive in July. This did not deter our explorations as we soon got dry again after a downpour as it was always warm.
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Dinghy dock at Prickly Marina
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| Wobbly dinghy dock |
Sandy, Dave's wife arrived and it was time for us to say farewell to Justen. We had dinner at Umbrella's Restaurant in Grand Anse, which was amazing. By this stage Elric, on The Kraken, had moved to the bay around the corner, called Whisper Cove. He joined us for dinner and bummed a lift back with Justen and Dave in the car that they had rented.
We saw Paul and Chris, SV Georgia, a few times before they left and headed north to finish their circumnavigation. They are such a lovely couple. We met Wendy and John, another South African couple who came over in 2020 and then spent 18 months back home during Covid. They have just got back to Grenada and are fixing up their boat before they leave and head to Antiqua. They had left their boat, Headway, on anchor and it needed some serious TLC. John reminded me of my dad. I'm very sad I didn't get a picture of them before they left. Maybe our paths will cross again.
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| Headway before her facelift |
Every Tuesday a couple of minivans arrive at the marina at One Love and sell their wares. We love the egg lady, she has the best eggs for a fairly good price - $1 an egg = R6 an egg. There is a guy who sells fresh fruit and veg, someone who sells meat at exorbitant prices and a chap who sells bread and pastries.
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| Tuesday morning market |
Dave and Sandy invited us to go on a tour around the island with them in their hired car. We went up to Concord Falls and had a swim in the beautiful clean fresh water. The roads are narrow and at times the steep drop off the side was terrifying. People drive in the middle of the road and only swerve at the last minute to miss cars. There doesn't seem to be a speed limit and there are no lines on the roads.
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| Concord Falls |
The chap on the step talking to Andrew offered to jump off the top of the falls and dive into the water, for a fee. We declined the offer and he went off to wait for the next gullible tourist.
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| Beautiful waterfall |
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Andrew, Laura and I
(our legs and feet grew on the passage!) |
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| Dave and Sandy |
After the falls we went to Grenada Marine and had a drink at Laura’s Restaurant with a quick snack.
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| Grenada Marine |
Laura was delighted to find a restaurant in her name.
Then we went to Clarke’s Court Marine, where Dave is going to haul his boat out in a few months for hurricane season. It is huge, with so many big beautiful boats there. It was lovely to see so much of the island.
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| Clarke's Court Marine |
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| A typical road |
After another week or so had passed we decided to take the bus to St Georges. We walked around the town, which was interesting. We kept being accosted and asked if we needed help or a guide to somewhere. Of course we said no, as all they want is money. There are street vendors who sell fruit and veg on the side of the road. Sandy asked each one for prices, but they were more or less the same wherever we looked. Grenada was famous for nutmeg, and although the farming thereof is not as prolific, nutmeg can be bought everywhere. There was a spice market with little bags of different spice being sold, along with biscuits, oils and hot sauce. We went to the fort and had a tour.
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| Overlooking the spice market |
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| One of the less busy roads |
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| We walked miles |
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| Andrew waiting for us to catch up |
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| The courtyard where Maurice Bishop was executed |
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| Overlooking St George's |
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| Laura and Andrew (and Dave) |
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| Looking toward St George's |
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| Grande Anse Bay |
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| Remains of the Catholic Church |
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| Cruise liner terminal |
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| Overlooking the Carenage |
Our dinghy is our car, our mode of transport, our ferry from boat to land and back, without it we would be stranded. Although Andrew had the outboard serviced before we left home, it started to give us problems. One afternoon after a swim on the beach it stopped altogether and we had to paddle our way back to the boat. We diagnosed that there was water in the fuel. Remember Andrew dropped the fuel cap in the water in Fernando and we have had sticky tape over the hole since then. Andrew bought a new cap, but the damage was already done. Andrew borrowed a fuel filter from Dave and filtered the petrol. That seemed to do the trick!
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| Our transport |
There are a few things that irritate me about the cliche of sailors. Men seem to do the driving, both the boat and the dinghy. Women drop the anchor, pull up the anchor, pick up mooring balls which are quite heavy sometimes, cook, and clean. Okay, I'm generalizing here. We have met some women who don't cook on their boat. However, I decided it was time to change that. It was time to learn how to drive. No, not the boat! If you know me at all, you know I love driving the boat. It was time to learn to drive the car. I had a few lessons with Andrew and then it was time to solo across the bay. Freedom! Only kidding. It was great though, knowing I have acquired another skill which is essential should anything happen to Andrew, I could get ashore by myself without relying on Andrew to take me and fetch me when I want to go anywhere.
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| Not too fast now |
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| Better keep an eye on where I'm going |
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I did come back!
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We had to take the bus to the shopping centre to buy food. Once off the bus we decided to take the scenic route via the beautiful Grande Anse beach.
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| Laura |
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| Looking for shells |
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Beautiful blue sea
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| Just a girl and her shopping bag |
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| Finished shopping |
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| The long trek back with the shopping |
When we first arrived we spent a fortune getting our washing done at the laundromat at Prickly Bay Marina. It was necessary as we had so much. I have since found washing machines at Spice Island Marine which is a whole lot cheaper, where I can do the washing myself for 20 EC wash and dry (R180). I still wash some clothes by hand on the boat which makes me miss my washing machine and washing line back home! Of course while we wait for the washing we sit at One Love Restaurant and use the Wi-Fi.
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| Using the Wi-Fi |
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| The dinghy dock |
The dock gets busy, especially on market days. Most people dock their dinghy here and walk to the shops or catch the bus further on down the road.
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It was beer time somewhere
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| Very specific ml |
We spent most of May in Prickly Bay decompressing and recovering from our crossing, finding out the lay of the land, where to shop and get the best prices for fruit and veg. Calypso took a lot of hard knocks on the passage over the ocean and we had a lot of boat work to do.
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| R190 - R213 for a bottle of wine |
We met a few more people. Brandon arrived on his cat, Viente Del Mar, with his two crew from Cape Town. You may have seen their boat in a photo in the St Helena post. We didn't meet them there as they were still waiting for their Covid test when we left. They came to our boat for a drink and find out about the lay of the land. It was good to be the ones to giving information for a change. Joren and Simone on Vis - a Trimaran. Beverley and Andre Steenkamp on their cat, Sea Dancer, left Cape Town in January. Judge Trevor Chartilier, a pom, on Nevera, is a hoot! He talks to everyone and kept telling Laura to look on YouTube for his channel where he sing sea shanties and reads kids books. A Dutch couple, Jean Pierre and his wife Pharo, on Sinang anchored next to us and invited us over for a drink. Mike Haywood and Rebecca Childress, who sailed across on Brick House turned up in the bay in two separate boats. Watch Rebecca on YouTube for more on her story.
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| LLB - very refreshing soft drink |
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| Local beer |
The weather has been great after the rain in our first week. We are plagued by fine red dust from the Sahara which get everywhere. It blocks the sun and makes the horizon look murky.
Andrew, Laura and I spent a few days walking and exploring the area around us. We stopped at several new restaurants, where we had to have a drink at least, if not a quick bite.
Although this looks like a lighthouse, it is actually part of someone's house. It can be seen way out at sea and is one of the first things one sees when approaching Prickly Bay.
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Non-lighthouse
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| Gumbar sailing from Woburn |
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| Bougainvillea |
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Necessary refreshment
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| True Blue Bay |
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Dodgy Dock, True Blue Bay
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May passed quickly and before we knew it June was looming and we hadn't been anywhere other than Prickly Bay. It was time to move. We have met a few people who have been here for years. Shaun and Shelly have been living on their boat for about 6 years in Prickly Bay. I can see how easy it would be to drop anchor and not go anywhere else. Life is simple and fairly easy. You can renew your visa as many times as you need. You may not work without a work permit which you can get but it is a long, expensive process, something Shaun and Shelly are in the process of doing. We have met quite a few South Africans who have sold up back home and do not plan to return.
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| Having a much needed chat with Matt |
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| Laughing Gulls |
So, time to move! In another effort to get out of my comfort zone and break the female sailor stereotype, I drove the boat off the anchor for the first time. The anchor was very dirty and full of growth, so Andrew had to spray it before it went in the anchor locker.
We decided to go round the corner to Whisper Cove, a bay about an hour away from Prickly. We had heard varying reviews about it, from dirty water to hectic social life.
In the next installment read about our weekend in Whisper Cove in Woburn Bay and find out why Laura is wearing a party hat.
