Wednesday, August 31, 2022

Highlights of Grenada - July and August

We have been very boring since arriving in back in Grenada in mid July. However, things have been done, fixed, bought and replaced.

Andrew celebrated his birthday in Prickly Bay. He was very quiet about it and even went to morning exercises on the beach without telling anyone. Dave, Sandy and Elric came over from Woburn Bay in a taxi that evening and we had pizzas at One Love. They have the best, cheapest pizzas we have found so far, and their happy hour special isn't bad either (beers: 3 for 12EC, gin: 2 for price of 1) Their pizza chef that night was very slow and we got our pizzas in twos. Not great when there are six people eating pizza. We eventually all got our food and had a lovely evening celebrating Andrew's birthday. 

Remember I said that I had not prepared for birthdays or presents. Well, I went into town with Faye in the morning and bought Andrew a JBL speaker, which he loves. It is a wonderful speaker and we have used it almost every night, especially on a Friday night!

We have watched the rugby matches at Prickly Bay Marina restaurant on the big screen, sometimes both big screens are working!


Brandon's partner, Gayle, finally arrived in Grenada. She waited 8 weeks for a transit visa through the UK. They left us for a couple of weeks and went up north as far as Bequia. We tried hard to keep up the beach gym, but it just wasn't the same without Brandon there telling us to "Earn the burn!" We had to say goodbye to Gayle at the end of August as she had to return to SA to work.

Andrew finally got his SOK Lithium batteries. He took a few days to install them, mainly because they arrived on a Thursday and he started the install on Friday and was still installing them on Saturday only to find he didn't have enough wire and lugs and other things, but also he did it slowly to ensure he was doing it right. Shops close here over the weekend, so he had to wait until Monday to get it finished. Murphy's law, we had the most rain we have had so far in a 24 hour period during the time the batteries were only hooked up to solar. During the early hours on Monday morning, we are awoken to a loud beeping sound. The battery voltage was too low and they went into emergency mode and shut everything down on the boat. Trying hard not to panic, we went back to sleep and woke on Monday morning to more rain. Andrew took the batteries ashore and asked Brett, the owner of the marina, if he could hook up on shore power. While the batteries were charging he went into zoomies mode and finished rewiring. By Monday evening we had the batteries back on board and wired up and charging!

While all that was happening, Laura and I tried to stay out of Andrew's way as much as possible. The boat is very small when there are no steps and there are tools everywhere! We spent Monday morning at the West Indies Brewing Co, no, not drinking beer, but tea and using the ultra fast Wi-Fi.

Another project Andrew has spent the past month working on is the deck repair. It gets so hot during the day that he only worked on it in the morning and later in the afternoon. He bought a space suit to prevent fiberglass shards from going all over his body, which only worked a bit. We can't go anywhere until it is finished so hopefully he will get a move on and finish it soon. 

The Sand Bar is still our favourite place to watch the sunset with a few beers and anyone who wants to join us. We usually go for a swim first and then make sure we are there for happy hour. 



Another good way to see people is to have a raft up, or meet on the trampoline of a catamaran. We had sundowners on Brandon's boat, which is always lots of fun.


Dave, Andrew, Beverly, Andre and Shaun

Martin, Michael, Rebecca (just see her head), Janice and Shelly

Ian and Laura

Ian, Siobhan, Fay, Gayle, Brandon, Sandy and Tony

We had to say farewell to Dave and Sandy as they had hauled their boat out for a few months while they visit friends and family in the States. Rebecca Childress went back home to visit her parents. Rob and Paulynne went to the States to be there for the arrival of their grandchild.

A few more South Africans arrived in Prickly. Even though some Saffas had left, at one stage we counted 11 Saffa boats in Prickly Bay. 

Shopping is always an interesting experience. I went shopping with Faye and Tony one morning. Faye showed me a whole array of different shops, from the veggie shop, to the Indian market and the place to buy cheaper wine! There is one main road, Maurice Bishop Highway, which is about a 2,5 km walk, 2 minutes in a speeding bus. At the end of the road is CK's where we get wine, some meats, New Zealand cheese and butter. The veggie shop is just a little further on. If we need to go to the big supermarket, IGA, we catch a bus. I enjoy the walk and will walk back to the dinghy dock as well if the shopping isn't too heavy.

We get eggs from the egg lady who sells on a Tuesday at Budget Marine. She is not very reliable and is often AWOL. We have discovered that when you see veggies that you like, eg cauliflower, cabbage and avocado, buy them! Next time you go to the shop they might not be there. The same goes for meat. Everything is frozen so when we find fresh meat such as pork, we buy enough for a few days. The standard fare is chicken or mince meat, (chicken or beef?) steak is not found or is too expensive to buy. One would think the seafood would be freely available, but it is not. Fresh fish is nowhere to be found but you can get frozen shrimp.

Laura's highlight of the month has been being able to watch Disney+. Andrew spent hours on WhatsApp chat with someone trying to work out how we can pay for it here. It keeps booting us out because it recognizes we are in Grenada but the credit card is South African. They couldn't help us so they gave us a month free subscription! Laura has been in heaven!

There are quite a few boat dogs of all shapes and sizes. One guy paddles every evening with his little white dog on the paddle board. Another guy comes down to the beach and puts his dog on the board while he swims around the bay. The best behaved dog is the one on Black Sheep. We miss our dogs, but would not have them on board for various reasons, the biggest one being the red tape you have to jump through when going to certain islands.

We still can't quite believe we are actually here and spend many hours talking about things we could have done differently. Everybody we meet says they should have stocked their boat more. I have thought about that a lot and the only thing I could have had more of was wine, gin, whiskey, and rum! Our batteries would not have managed any more fridges/cooler box type fridges and we are still using the pasta from home. I think the biggest surprise is that we are eating differently to the way we did at home. We have had to adapt to what we can find and afford. I should have loaded us up with more popcorn, peanut butter, jams, tomato sauce, hot sauces and Mrs Ball's Chutney.

We have met lots of people who have crossed the Atlantic and we have come to the conclusion that we had a fairly good passage. I thank Andrew and his excellent weather watching on Predict Wind. 

I know you all think we are in paradise. We are, but life is life no matter where you are. We have problems on the boat which are sometimes big, sometimes small, sometimes an easy fix and sometimes not. Our worries are different from those back home living in a house. When it rains we have to close the hatches so the saloon and nav table don't get wet. So on a good rainy day we spend a lot of time doing hatch gym, opening and closing the hatches! I miss my washing machine and clothes line! Washing is a chore and costs 10EC per wash and 10EC per dry, and can take up to 4 hours to finish if other people are also washing. But on the up side, it is a place where you meet all sorts of people, and learn about their travels while waiting for your turn with the machine. 

Do you know how much hair the average person sheds?!! Well, on a boat it is a lot. Ask any cruiser with long hair how much hair they find in all sorts of nooks and crannies! And look how long Laura's hair was. She had been asking for a hair cut for ages so I saved a bit of money and hacked it off myself. I am sure my mom was looking over my shoulder while I was being hairdresser! I had to get it straight first time.

Long hair gets everywhere!

Eek! Maybe a bit short! And is it straight?

Gorgeous!

The thing that has struck me most is the sense of community a group of cruisers share. We all have a common love - sailing, and most of us have at least crossed an ocean. All you need to do is stand on you deck with a sander or paint brush and you have every passing dinghy stopping off to see what you are doing and offer advice. Reach out for help and you have at least one person willing to assist, lend a spanner, give you a lift or just help wherever needed. 

Early one morning, we had a massive squall with 50 knots winds rip through the anchorage. Nobody was expecting it and we had no prior warning from the Grenada weather centre. Most of us were up in a hurry, checking that our boats were okay. Many boats on anchor dragged, some were knocked sideways, and some people lost cockpit cushions and paddle board paddles, amongst other things. Shaun had a boat drag onto his anchor chain, with the other guys anchor going up the chain and resting on his bow. He spent the rest of the night watching that they both didn't drag.

Later Claire put on the Prickly Sailing Mates' WhatsApp group that there was a boat dragging and heading out to sea. It didn't take long for about 6 people to respond, Andrew being one of them. They jumped in their dinghies and raced to the yacht. Andrew and another guy got on the boat and tried to pull up the anchor only to find the windlass was not attached to the deck. Apparently the boat was a mess, with pots and pans and rubbish lying around in the cockpit. A call on the radio was put out for a knife so that they could cut the anchor. We had been sent a weather warning that another big gust was expected and I was so worried about them halfway out to sea. 

They eventually managed to release the anchor, attaching a buoy to it so that the owner could find it, and towed the boat back to safety.

The big blow didn't materialize and they were all safe. The owner returned to his boat a few days later, but didn't even say thank you for saving his boat. Maybe he didn't actually want it saved! A few weeks later he asked one of the rescuers where his anchor was dropped. Who knows if he found it!

This was our dinghy after the rain and wind came through, filled with water.


Remember in a post a few posts back, I said we had put the dinghy on the side of our boat at night. Well, Sandy and Dave were knocked sideways when the 50 knot gust came through and we are sure it was because they had their dinghy on one side. They wind had something to get under and push them over. Needless to say, we have not had our dinghy up on the side since.

I thought it would be hard meeting new people but to my amazement, it has been wonderful. On the down side, you meet people who you really make a connection with and become friends knowing they, or you, will be leaving, heading in different directions and you might or might not see them again. On the other hand, you may bump into them again on your travels. One thing is for certain, is that they will be friends for life.

There is a place called The Container Park, which is basically a whole bunch of containers that people have used to open individual kitchens in. There is a wide choice of food from Chinese, Indian, burgers and pizza and more. It is a popular hangout of the Grenada University students, especially on a Friday night. We walked there from Budget Dock with Faye, Ian and Tony and had supper.






Grenada Part 2 will be following shortly. We have more boat repairs that need attending to before we can think about going anywhere. We meet more Saffas and yes, spend more time at the Sand Bar.

Tuesday, August 16, 2022

Carnival - a bit of a history lesson - videos included

Carnival, otherwise known as Spicemas returned at the beginning of August this year after a 2 year hiatus because of Covid. The tradition of the carnivals comes from Africans, who were brought to the Caribbean as slaves. They were not allowed to celebrate their traditions, so they had to celebrate in secret. The Spicemas Carnival commemorates the end of slavery, with days of celebrations including concerts in the national stadium, the children's parade, a beauty pageant, lots of parties, parades in the street, and lots of loud music. 

J'ouvert (pronounced: Juvee) is a party that takes place in the streets in the early hours of the morning. It is one of the most important ceremonies of the carnival as it represents the free spirit, the end of slavery, and the freedom of worship. The people who participate cover themselves in old engine oil, paint, or cocoa, and wear costumes, masks, chains and horned hats. Onlookers are encouraged to wear their oldest clothes that will just be thrown away afterwards, as you are likely to get at least a spray of oil or paint thrown at you. 

We didn't participate in J'ouvert, however some cruising friends of ours did. They said it was lots of fun, very loud and quite risqué with some of the antics of the participants.

Shaun and Shelley

Tony


Faye






The final day of the carnival is known as The Last Lap during which Pretty Mas Parade happens. Believe it or not, the streets are clean and very little evidence of the previous days' engine oil party can be seen. This is the time for the ladies to shine in their very skimpy costumes complete with feathers and shiny sequins. Each district has a band that plays their music from trucks and distributes food and drinks to their group from the trucks, with the dancing men and women following behind. The general public can join a band, for a fee, and dress up and parade down the street with the group.

We went into St George's on a bus, packed full of cruisers and joined our friends, Shelley, Shaun, Faye, Ian, and Tony at the parade. 

22 Cruisers in a bus

Ready for a party

More at the back

We had a fantastic afternoon. It was definitely worth the effort of getting there. The music was loud as each truck came past. There was such a lovely air of festivity and happiness amongst the participants and the crowd. Drinks were sold on the side of the road and local food could be bought at nearby vendors.

Waiting for the first trucks to arrive

The video below shows the Short Knee Band.



We had fun stopping people and asking for a photograph.


Faye and Siobhan



Food trucks

Chicken for lunch

Joining in the fun!



Photo please?

Happy to stop for a photo





Tony and the stilt walker



Drinks in a pram



Beautiful!

The different colours were vibrant

As you can see in the next video clip, everybody was welcome to join in the street parade.    

Watch to the end to see how much Laura was enjoying herself, contrary to internet belief!!





Spectacular colors

Look at the size of those speakers



Cheers everyone