Grenada

Andrew went ashore to go and check in to Grenada. This was a lot easier than checking out of Trinidad despite one of the officials only arriving for work after 10am.

We decided to do the right thing and move to a mooring ball. People are not supposed to anchor in Martin's Bay as there is a lot of coral and the holding is poor. However, it seemed like boats coming in just saw other boats anchored and dropped anchor right there without checking to see if there were any balls available.

Cruise ship in St George's

When the guy came round to check if we had paid for the ball he said he was going to call the Coast Guard about the anchored boats. Not sure what the Coast Guard will do, but at least he is trying to get the boats to do the right thing.

We looked at our chart plotter and discovered that our fastest speed to Grenada was 12.2 knots, current assisted. Very fast for our boat! 

 

It is really nice to be back on the water which is bluer, cleaner and clearer than Trinidad water.

 

After spending the weekend at St Georges, we decided to head over to Prickly Bay, our old stomping ground. We didn’t even put a sail up as the wind was directly on the bow. 

 

Our first attempt at anchoring was not good. It is quite deep and I don’t think we hooked at all. Thank goodness we hadn’t completely forgotten the procedure and the second attempt had us well hooked into the sand.

Prickly Bay

 

For the next few days we were pummelled with rain, high winds and big swell. Prickly Bay is renown for its swell, but this was quite ridiculous! 

Dishy

Starlink has yet to find a permanent spot on the boat. At the moment it is placed on the deck. With all the rolling I was worried we would be diving in the dirty water to retrieve it, but thank goodness it stayed put. The one thing we didn't realise was that it would take a LOT of battery power when on. We rely on the sun to charge our batteries and we even got the wind generator going again, but the dish was using too much. This means that we can only have the dish on for short spurts while we madly download and update things. Andrew tried to buy two small solar panels but couldn't find them in Grenada.

We had only wanted to spend a week or so in Grenada, but as those of you who have moored there know, Prickly Bay seems to have Velcro on the sea bed. We started out with only a few jobs to do, which grew to a few more and some that involved other people which meant more waiting time.

New Saffa Flag

 

So we got on with normal daily life in between the rolling and the rain. One of the washing machines at Spice Island Marine was broken which meant an endless queue of people waiting to use the remaining machine. Laura and I were not willing to stand in line, so we washed clothes off the back of the boat.

We went for a couple of walks. One was our usual haunt to the lighthouse that isn’t a light house and the other was a walk to the derelict house on the end of the land that juts out of the east side of the bay.

New monstrosity being built

 

Dollar wings were still a weekly occurrence, more for the social aspect rather than the wings. One morning after dollar wings we discovered a fish in our dinghy. 

No rod necessary

 

With all the rain we discovered new leaks which Andrew tried to fix. He also pottered around doing lots of little boat jobs, such as putting up netting on our bookshelves so that our books don’t go flying when we are on a port tack.

 

The gas for the stove ran out one Saturday. We had to wait until Monday to take it to be filled and only got it back on Wednesday.

Our friends Faye and Ian on Gumbar had been anchored in Hog Island but came around to Prickly just before leaving to go to Ronde Island. We had some fun times playing games.

 

Andrew had to get his dive cylinder hydrotested, a visual inspection done, and then filled. Scuba-Tec only does the filling and visual inspection, so off we went down the Maurice Bishop Highway to find the place to do the hydrotest. They only test on a Wednesday and we could only fetch it on Thursday as they had to write out certificates for all the cylinders they were testing. More waiting. We eventually got it back and dropped it off with Scuba-Tec. By this stage it was weekend which meant we only got the cylinder back on Monday. Another week had passed.

Faye and Ian needed to check out of Grenada so I went with her to St George's in the bus. I had a few other errands to do as well, one of which was looking for an SD card for our chart plotter. I wandered the streets looking for a shop that would sell them. Most shops only had a 64 gig and we needed a 32 gig.  I eventually found what I needed at the Chinese shop.

Streets of St George's

 

One has to go to the bus rank to catch a bus back to Prickly. They wait until the bus is packed to the brim before leaving. I was sitting next to a little boy, traveling on his own, who told me he was in Grade 2. The next thing I felt something on my arm and look down to see him running his finger along my arm. He looked up at me and asked if I was born in Grenada. Too cute!! The teacher in me wanted to haul out a map and show him where I come from, even though he insisted he knew where South Africa was.

As a South African flagged boat, we need to do an annual Certificate of Fitness (CoF). This is an inspection of our boat, making sure all our emergency equipment is up to date, such as our flares, life raft, life jackets, and fire extinguishers. It is easily done in South Africa, but not so easy abroad. Many South African’s have their boats flagged in foreign countries to avoid the expensive palaver that we had to go through.

 

Andrew contacted SAMSA to find out if he could use anyone in Grenada to do the inspection. He had to submit CV’s of the two people he found. One was selected and eventually, after many backward and forward emails, a day was set for the inspection to be done. 

 

Laura and I skedaddled off the boat and went shopping, leaving Andrew to deal with the many questions that the Captain asked. He was very thorough, looking at every inch of the boat including the engine room and bilges. Two hours and $100 US later, he was finished. Andrew was very impressed with him and will recommend him to other people.

Sunset on one side of the bay

Full moon rising on the other

Eventually we were ready to leave. On Monday, 27 November, after nearly a month in Grenada, we pulled up a very dirty anchor chain and anchor and headed out the bay. We decided to stop for the night in Halifax Harbour which is about 10 nm from Prickly Bay. Then it was a short hop to Ronde Island (15nm). We had been there before so we knew where to anchor.

In the next installment, we spend a few days in Ronde before heading to Carriacou to check out of Grenada.

Back on Calypso - Trinidad

We woke up at 3am, on Monday, 23 October, and caught an Uber to JFK. It was surprisingly busy at that early hour. Our 5-hour flight to Trinidad departed on time at 7:30.

There are some strange things that occur in the islands but the strangest was what happened at the luggage carousal at the arrivals in Trinidad. We were right at the back of the plane, and some people were not in a hurry to leave, only getting up once the people in the row in front of them had moved on and taking their time retrieving their baggage in the overhead lockers, because of this we were almost the last ones off the plane. When we got to the baggage claim area we watched as a few bags went round the carousal. Then we noticed a lot of bags neatly lined up according to size, shortest to tallest, my teacher brain was impressed. When we went to investigate, we saw a chap on that side of the carousel taking the bags off as they came past him, not letting them go around again. Our bags were not there so we waited some more. Did I mention that it was pouring with rain when we landed? No, well, it was. The carousal stopped for about 5 minutes while people milled around waiting. We were quite relieved when it started again with more bags popping through the shoot. We found one (wet) suitcase and then saw our red bag pop out the shoot. Next thing a guy takes it off, right out the shoot, it hasn’t even gone 10 cm, and puts in on the floor. Andrew went over and asked what on earth he was doing? He just shrugged his shoulders! Finally, all the bags accounted for we headed off to the customs line.

 

We had a few boat parts and spares that we had bought in South Africa, so we decided to do the right thing and declare them. Well, what a palaver! After waiting for about 10 minutes for the customs person to arrive, they told us that we would have to go to Chaguaramas port authority and declare them there. 

 

Our friendly taxi guy, Tristan, was patiently waiting for us outside and an hour after landing we finally got on the road to Chaguaramas.

 

Before heading to the boat, we stopped at Port Authority in Chaguaramas. Andrew went into the office with only his bag with boat parts, but no, the man wanted to see all our bags. After pawing through our clothes, questioning us whether we had drugs, guns, prescription medication, or gifts from anyone, he finally let us go, without paying a cent. We didn't have to pay as the worth was below a certain threshold. Tristan said he had never seen them go through bags like that. Who knows what the man thought we had.

 

We had rented a room again at Peake Marina for Laura and me, so we dropped bags there and went to see our boat. It was wonderful to see Calypso again.

There she is, where we left her

Not our dinghy

What's the damage?

Although I had cleaned the boat thoroughly with vinegar water and we had put out moister catchers and poison for bugs, we found a bit of mould, two cockroaches and lots of liquid in the moisture buckets. Andrew and I set about cleaning inside and putting things back where they belonged.

One of the things Andrew bought while in SA was Starlink. It had arrived before us in Trinidad and was waiting in the Peakes office for us. It was set up immediately. Cleaning and packing away on hold!

Starlink Speeds

Peake boat yard is not walking distance from any  big shops but they have a free bus that goes three or four times a week to various shops, which is marvelous. However, when Andrew enquired about putting his name down for the next bus he was told they were all full until the following Monday. We had no food on board at all!! Luckily Mark, from Infinity, had some chicken and a salad which he shared with us. The following day Laura and I walked to the little shop at Power Boats and got some veg and meat, at vast expense.

 

Eventually Erin, in the Peake office, relented and said she could “squeeze” one of us on the Thursday bus. The bus driver is only allowed to take 8 people in his bus, including himself. Seems like a strange rule when most places pack those minibus taxis to the limit.

 

One of the other cruisers had organized a bus to take cruisers to the Saturday market. This is very popular as you can get lovely fresh fruit, veg and meat. We managed to get two spaces on one bus, so Laura and I went to the market while Andrew painted the bottom of Calypso.

 

So after two shopping trips and one on the following Monday, we were all set with food.

Alternative to Rooibos Tea

It was very festive watching the rugby final. Denver set up a TV and we all gathered around a cooler box of beers and the TV and watched with our hearts in our mouths most of the time! Another nail-biting finish. 

Denver and Mark

One of the Bush kids' t-shirt

Phillipa (black shirt = Kiwi) and Nathan (striped shirt = Aussie), the Kiwi supporters

Saffa cupcakes

Saffa pride

Much excitement

It rains a lot in Trinidad, but it seemed to miss Chaguaramas often which meant it was hot and dusty in the boat yard. Temperatures inside the boat could soar to 40 degrees at noon, making boat work impossible. We felt absolutely drained from the heat and only managed boat jobs early in the morning and later in the afternoon. Siesta was invented for a very good reason.

One afternoon there was this beautiful rainbow fire in the sky.

Peakes has a wonderful braai area with a gas braai and tables and benches to sit on where cruisers get together, cook food and chat in the evening. Cooking there was so much easier than cooking on the boat. We ate there every night as Laura was not going to attempt the high ladder into the boat.

Yard cat

A group of cruisers got together three times a week at 7am to do an hour of Yoga. It is harder than it looks! Laura and I joined in, Andrew refused!

The boat kids were very excited about Halloween. They carved brilliant pumpkins which we put under the tree next to the skeleton. On Halloween they all got dressed up for trick-or-treating.

Hot outfit!

There was a lot of boat work that needed to be done in a fairly short space of time. We enlisted some help, thanks Denver (Saoirse) and he and Andrew got the bottom painted in no time. 

Bottom paint

We also found some time to have some fun. Andrew and Mark decided to fly their drones one morning. 

Can you see both of them?

There they are

Chris Bush from Ella was very keen to get one so was very interested in how it worked. Andrew showed him how and then he had a turn.

Quick lesson

Andrew wanted to fly it over the boat and get a few pictures. But he misjudged the tree and it got caught in the topmost branches. After much discussion about how to get it down, long poles were found to try and knock it out the tree. It eventually let go of the branches and fell to the ground. Our friendly security guard caught it before it hit earth.

Sadly, it's broken

We were supposed to splash on Tuesday 7^th November, but Andrew and I decided that we had had enough. We completed the last of the boat tasks, hull painted, prop greased, sides buffed, we were ready to go. 

Andrew had wanted to service the prop shaft, but the guy who could do it never came to see the boat to quote on it. We were told by other cruisers that it might take months for him to do so and then more time to do the actual job! We were not prepared to wait for him and decided that we could haul out in elsewhere if needs be.

Trying to splice a rope

Andrew had bought some new rope for the main sheet which he wanted to splice. Of course YouTube makes it look so easy. After wasting a meter or so he gave up.

Our chart plotter stats

 

It is quite nerve wracking watching your home go into the water. Airborne is not a natural place for a boat. But the yard guys were amazing, taking great care as they slowly lowered Calypso into the water. 

We were the last boat to splash at 3pm on Thursday 2 November so that we could stay in the slip, as there was no space on any of the docks. The sea had been quite rough and even if we had been med moored on the dock I think I would have had an issue getting off the boat, let alone Laura.

Once she was in, Andrew went aboard to check that all the through hulls were fine and not leaking. He was down there so long Mark and I thought he was having an anchor beer but he popped his head up and gave the thumbs up. 

Next job was to lower the dinghy, which now has a leak on the starboard side, into the water, get into smart clothes and make our way to Customs and Immigration to check out of Trinidad. Their hours are 8am to 4pm so we knew we would have to pay overtime fees. 

 

What we didn’t know was how long it would take or the rigmarole that we had to go through. First of all, everything is paper forms, in triplicate, with carbon paper! I kid you not!! And I filled in at least 4 different forms with more or less the same information.

We were told we had to pay an overtime fee of 100 TT, which we expected. Then there was a fee per person for harbour fees. Then she said that she had to check us back onto our boat so it was another 100 TT. By this stage we were appalled and had no more cash. They don’t take cards and don’t have an ATM nearby. We questioned why we would need to be checked back onto our own boat which is a recreational craft, not a tanker or working boat. She couldn’t really answer. 

 

We were told the nearest ATM is near Peake’s marina. Yes, we said, there is one there but it is inside the chandlery and the chandlery closes at 4pm. By now it was 5pm. We had already been there for an hour filling in all the forms. She told us we can go to the nearest supermarket down the road, which isn’t actually down the road, it’s probably about 2 or more kilometres away. We told her we don’t have a car, only a dinghy so we can’t get there. She says, how did you get here from the airport? A taxi!?

 

By this stage we were getting really fed up but of course you still have to smile and be polite. After confirming that we only need to pay another 100 TT Andrew went to Customs to find out what their fee will be. We eventually ascertain that it will be 235 TT, we head off back to Peakes to find somebody with cash.

 

Andrew left us on the boat and he went back, only to find the lady walking down the steps with our paperwork heading to Customs. The extra 100 TT has been “waivered”. 

 

After nearly 2 hours we were finally checked out of the country. We had been hoping to get our sails on before dark but as it was 6pm the sun had already set. 

We were worried about how much time we would have in the morning to put the sails on. We had to be off the dock before 8am as the first boat would be going in then and we didn't want to be putting sails on at anchor. After supper we decided to get the Genoa up with the light of a headlamp and a nearby lamp post. That done we collapsed into bed!

 

The following morning, Friday 3^rd November, we woke before sunrise and started putting the main sail on. This is a finicky job and I am glad we waited until morning to do it. We completed our pre-sail check and were ready to leave. 

 

Then the rain started bucketing down. Denver, from Saoirse, came to help us untie dock lines. 

 

And finally, we were off. I should just mention here that Denver questioned our sanity leaving on a Friday. If he hadn’t mentioned it, I probably wouldn’t have known what day of the week it was. Well, I’m not sure if it was because it was Friday or what, but we had a sporty sail to Grenada. Thanks Denver!

 

It is 88 nm to St Georges, Martin’s Bay, Grenada which should take about 14 hours with boat speed at 6 knots. For the first 3 hours we had to motor sail as there was no wind. For the next 7 hours we had phenomenal sailing doing up to 8 knots boat speed. The sea state was lumpy but manageable. 

 

When we had about 25 nm to go, we noticed two massive squalls either side of us. We watched in trepidation, hoping the one on our starboard side would pass us. But no, we ended up in the middle of it. Thankfully we managed to reef our Genoa before it got too bad. Andrew had reefed the main sail when he hoisted it. Thank goodness.

 

Waves were beginning to break over the bow and Laura was worried about her cabin getting wet. Next thing a massive wave broke over the bow and gushed through the starboard hatch, which we, stupidly, had not closed properly. We worked out that what happened. We had just closed it, without latching it, when the rain started that morning and forgot about it. Sea water was everywhere. I dashed down below and started mopping up, sliding from side to side as we bashed through the waves. Laura also came to sit down below but started to feel queasy as it was very hot with all the hatches now securely closed.

 

Andrew battled the wind, highest recorded gust was 40 knots, the waves, and the rain and finally the squall moved on, leaving us with 25 knot winds and more rain.

 

The sun set quickly as it does here, with no lingering twilight and we arrived in Grenada at 8pm in the dark. We spent a while looking for a mooring ball, but they were all occupied, so we went out as far as we could and dropped the anchor. You are not allowed to anchor here, but there was nothing else we could do. We planned to move in the morning.

Sailing is tiring

Calm before the storm

Thanks for reading! In the next installment I will explain why we spent more time than expected in Grenada.