Last of Deltaville

In my previous blog I promised some pictures of Deltaville. Well, things didn't go according to plan and although I was running I didn't take my phone with me. Once we had hauled out it was all hands on the proverbial deck to get Calypso sorted as quickly as possible.

We were supposed to haul out on Friday, 12 July, but the weather was not co-operating. It rained non-stop for three days. They said that they would haul us out on Monday morning first thing. This was leaving things a bit tight with no room for more bad weather, as we were flying out on Wednesday.

We spent the weekend getting as much prepared as we could. We had removed the sails earlier in the week. On Monday morning we hauled up the dinghy, horrified at what the bottom of it looked like, and put it on the deck.

We pulled up a very muddy anchor and drove over to the haul out lift. Andrew struggled to get the boat turned around as we were being pushed off by the wind. We needed to go into the docking area stern first. We eventually managed to get close enough to the guys on the dock who pulled us around using boat hooks. We assured them that we actually did know how to drive a boat! 

They needed to get us out on the small lift. If they couldn't, the yard manager, Heidi, would have needed to play Tetris to find a space for us. After some nerve wracking maneuvering, Calypso was hauled out.

Andrew then had to take off a few things from the stern of the boat so that the lift could be reversed out, leaving us on the chocks. A chap from the yard came with a cherry picker to help. After an hour or so, they had removed the radar, the aerials, and the wind generator and the lift was moved. Thank goodness. Not only did Heidi not have to play Tetris, but it also saved us some money!

It was so much hotter on the hard with hardly any wind relieving us from the 35 degree heat. The midges and mosquitoes were relentless and we had to burn a coil day and night to prevent us from being eaten alive!

We lowered the dinghy and scrubbed the bottom clean! We also lowered the anchor chain. If you remember we had been having problems with our chain twisting in the water. We had cut off a whole lot that was worn and it had definitely helped. However, when we got toward the end of the chain we found it was completed twisted in the anchor locker. Laura started out untwisting it but it became too much for her so I went down to untwist as we let it out. I eventually couldn't do any more and Andrew had to take his turn. He had to remove the lid for the lower locker to untwist the chain. Once we had all the chain on the ground we could give it a good clean. We were not allowed to leave the chain or the anchor on the ground in case they need to move us, so the following morning we upped the anchor again, trying very hard not to get it twisted!

I had done most of the cleaning using vinegar to try and prevent mold growing while we are away, but I still did another sweep through the boat. I had sorted and washed clothes the week before, trying to sort what we would take home. Thank goodness I started that job early as we discovered that we needed another suitcase. Andrew and I searched high and low in the very few shops in Deltaville and ended up buying one online from Amazon. 

We were hoping to find a suitcase at the second hand shop picture below, but it was closed. The owner's wife had apparently fallen and was not well. This intel was from a very friendly lady who was walking past when I peered in the window! By the way, this stuff stays out all night. There was a chain that was locking a few things together, but that was it. 

The planning of it all was quite nerve-wracking. We had things to do that could only be done on the last night or the last few hours before we left the boat. 

It was far too hot to take down the canvas early, so we left that for Tuesday night after sunset. I washed the last of the clothes that afternoon. Dirty clothes that we were wearing on Tuesday, were put in our suitcases! Maybe the airport officials would avoid searching them!

I thought that we had done the food planning very well. We only had a few things left in the fridge which I gave to Bev. Laura had done a countdown. I am not sure who was more excited about us arriving in SA, Matt or Laura. 

On Wednesday morning, after covering the last hatches, putting out bug poison and moisture wicking tubs, we put the tarp over the hatch and said farewell to the old girl. 

Our friends, Bev and Andre, who had bought a car, kindly offered to drive us to Richmond Airport which was about 120km, 1h30 minutes away. They arrived at our boat at 7am, loaded up our luggage and off we went. We were so grateful for the lift and it was lovely to spend the time chatting to both of them. 

Our flight to Newark was delayed by an hour, but in the greater scheme of things it was a short wait. The plane was long and skinny, with only four seats abreast. It was a short, 90 minute flight to Newark Airport. The plane was freezing, and we had to put on warm tops for the first time in months!

Our flight to Cape Town was only leaving at 8pm so we spent the afternoon people watching, reading, trying to catch up on social media and people watching some more.

New York in the distance

Finally it was time to board. We were seated right at the back of the plane. Some may think this is terrible, but I thought it was okay. There was nobody behind us, kicking or pushing the seat. The chap next to me moved to another row which meant Laura and I had more space between us. Even having the ablutions next to us wasn't an issue.

The only disaster was the meal. I had thought that I would order a special meal for Laura and myself, thinking the gluten free option would be best. Well, it was terrible. There might not have been any gluten in the muffins, oats, chickpea curry, and rolls we got, but there was plenty of sugar! We ended up hardly eating anything. 

We landed in Cape Town at 4:30pm after an almost 15-hour flight. If you are astute you would think that I have made a mistake there. Well, no, and this is where it was really strange for us. We landed at around 11am our time, but with the time difference it was closer to 5pm. We woke up, had breakfast, landed, got fetched by Matt and Kay, and went to their place for supper!

About a day after we arrived back home, Kay was chopping an onion for supper and I suddenly thought about the onions I had left in our vegetable baskets on the boat. I Whatsapped Bev to ask her if onions were among the things I had given her. Nope, not there. This was potentially a disaster. The onions would rot and go through four baskets as they were in the top, not to mention the smell that would greet us on our return. 

Knowing I was appealing for a huge favour, I asked Bev if they would be able to get into the boat to remove the onions. The next message I got was "Onions and garlic retrieved!" Wow, thank you so much, Bev and Andre! Superstars!

Table Mountain

Deltaville

We motor sailed all the way to Deltaville with the wind on the nose most of the time. I felt quite sad that we weren't able to just have the sails out for the last leg of our journey, without the noise of the donk!

US warships

We were about 3 - 4 nm out of Deltaville when storm clouds started gathering ahead of us. We watched, praying that it would pass by us but no, it came at us full force. 

It was the most terrifying experience I have been through. We had lightening strike the water on both sides of the boat at least three times with the clap of thunder booming at the same time. At one stage it felt like it was all around us, both sides and above us. How we were not struck, I do not know. Angels watching over us!

The rain pelted down, cleaning the boat but also getting in to all the places Andrew had tried to fix, with a vengeance! 

We put all our devices into the oven. I am not sure if that actually works but I would rather try and save them than not. 

We couldn’t see where we were going so we slowed down a bit. We didn’t want to arrive in the rain and thunder. After a while it blew over us and continued south. The rain abated and we entered the bay at Deltaville. We had to follow a course carefully as there is shoaling on either side. 

As luck would have it, the chart plotter decided to stop working and tried to turn us around the way we came. We couldn't reset it. Andrew used the track on his iPad to get us in. The bay looked quite small, with a few boats already anchored there, so we dropped anchor at the entrance. 

This is the last stop! We haul out here and go home for a bit. It feels very strange knowing that we don’t have another destination planned or don’t have to dash off early in the morning.

Andrew has been saying that he is travel fatigued. I don’t know if that is actually a thing, but I can imagine that he is very tired. We all feel like we have been on the go, non-stop, since leaving Trinidad in October last year. Andrew has been amazing checking all the places we wanted to stop at along the way, doing all the navigation and steering the boat, helped along by George, our trusty autopilot. 

We thoroughly enjoyed our trip through the Intracoastal Waterway. It was lovely to see other parts of America that we wouldn't necessarily see.

On Monday morning, Andrew phoned the CBP office praying that we wouldn't have to go in to the office to check in. Thank goodness they were helpful and friendly and said Andrew could check in online. After doing that we went ashore to check out the place where our boat will be for the rest of hurricane season.

On hurricanes.... while we were battling the thunder and lightning storm, the southern Caribbean were preparing themselves for Hurricane Beryl. She hit the islands on Monday, creating havoc in her wake. So many of the islands that we have visited have been destroyed. In Prickly Bay, Grenada, where we spent hurricane season in 2022, fourteen boats were separated from their moorings, whether it was a ball or anchor, and ended up on the beach and reef. Carriacou has been totally destroyed. Paradise Beach Club was a heap of wood. It is just devastating to see the footage of all those beautiful places. 

Deltaville is a small town with not much to it, but friendly people!. I have started running again, something I wasn’t happy to do on my own in other places. I am so unfit, it is disgusting! Brandon would be horrified. But I am hoping to get my fitness back to what it was.

At a small cost, the marina offers the use of their showers, laundry, a place to have parcels delivered and a car. The car has been the biggest plus. The supermarket is just too far to walk to and Andrew has had to buy parts and paint etc from the hardware store. It just makes life a little easier. 

View from the laundry

Resident cat

Woodwork painted - beautiful

We had said goodbye to Bev and Andre not expecting to see them again, but a few days after our arrival they arrived in the bay, dropped anchor next to us and popped over for a drink.

I have had so many birthday in exotic places. This one was a little different but it was still a good one. I found what I wanted on Amazon and sneakily put it in the basket. Andrew saw it in time, had it wrapped, and it was here when we arrived. 

Recipe book I can write in

Andrew spent the afternoon watching rugby while I watched Wimbledon. I have not really had an opportunity to keep up with all the tennis, but I do think that it has been good this year. There are some fantastic new youngsters climbing their way through the ranks. 

There is a South African couple here who sell boats. Jim and Claire’s boat, Bully, which is still here on the hard, was sold by them. We popped into their office to say hello. They weren’t there but a few days later we were invited to a braai at their home. Andre and Bev were also going so they gave us a lift in their new car! We spent a lovely Sunday evening chatting to other cruisers and getting to know Jonathan and Anne. 

I remember when we left SA I was so worried about having to meet new people. I am not great at small talk! Andrew is so much better, shooting the breeze with strangers. But it no longer feels strange walking into the house of people you have not met, to spend an evening conversing with total strangers. I guess we all have something in common so it makes it easier.

The Lune

We have now spent almost two weeks in Deltaville. We have spent the majority of our time doing necessary boat work. As we are going to be leaving the boat during winter, Andrew needs to winterize the boat. We have not done this before but I think it means we have to remove all water from the tanks and a few other things. 😁 Thank goodness Andrew has it all under control!

Clean anchor locker

Deck prep

Companionway hatch

aka the front door

Sails are off

The other day we needed to go to the shop and the car was not there, so we took the bicycles! It was such fun. We asked the chap at the marina office if we needed to lock the bikes at the shop. He looked at me like I was loopy. No, he says, there are only old people in Deltaville, they won't take the bikes. When we got to the shop, we propped the bikes up outside and they were still there when we came out. 

Andrew left his spectacles in the bathroom one evening after his shower. The following day he went back on the off chance they might still be there. Bearing in mind they are store bought readers, anyone could use them. Well, there they were, sitting on the counter! Amazing. 

I haven't taken many photos of the town which is lovely. I may find time between all the bilge cleaning, vinegar wash downs and packing to walk through the area of Deltaville and then bombard you with photos. 

Oriental

Next stop was Oriental. We are getting closer and closer to Deltavillle. It wasn’t far but the last stretch, as always seemed to go on for hours. We had to motor across the Neuse River which is very wide.

We finally dropped anchor in the choppy water and spent the afternoon see sawing up and down in the easterly. 

On Saturday morning we had to go the shop to buy the most important commodity on the boat: wine!

Andrew wanted to watch the rugby which was starting at 9am,  Wales against Springboks. So we went early, the Piggly Wiggly opened at 7am. it was a mile walk, which is 1.6km. It is HOT today, no wind. which was a blessing because then there is no fetch on the water ergo we don't get wet!! Bonus.

On the way a guy stopped and asked us if we wanted a lift. Yes please! We hopped in the back on his bakkie. He was not going to the Piggly but dropped us there anyway. Very friendly!!

The Piggly has a free shuttle service to the docks. You have to spend $60 to use the shuttle. HA HA! We spent far more than that on food and other essentials. We got the shuttle back and Andrew was back in time to watch the rugby!

We left Oriental on Sunday morning and sailed for a few hours until we reached our intended anchorage for the night. It was lovely. A big wide space with a few houses on the shore in the distance. 

We played loud music until sunset when we eventually had supper. We were just not in the mood to eat while the sun was still high in the sky. The sun is still setting after 8pm!

There was good wind the following day. We put out the head sail and sailed all the way to Belhaven. We had to enter the anchorage through man made walls, like going over the moat into a castle! 

We went ashore for a walk. Laura hadn’t been of the boat in a while so it was very necessary. We needed to find a emergency care place to get meds for Laura. Her spots on her face were not getting any better.

At first Andrew wanted to get an Uber as the emergency care place was just over 1 mile away, but there are no Ubers or they are not plentiful here. So we walked! And it wasn’t that far. A mere 2 km. We walked much further than that in Grenada to get to the shops!

At the emergency care Andrew got on the scale. He has been wanting to weigh himself for ages. He weighs 89kg! He said he hasn’t weighed that since he was at school!  He hasn’t tried to lose weight, but as he only eats twice a day, I am not surprised!

Slinky Husband!

We got some advice and meds for Lau. They think it is contact dermatitis. She has had this before so it must be something in her system.

The pharmacy was close by. It was not your regular CVS or Walgreens, but a mom and pop operation. It looked like something out of the 60’s. The pharmacist seemed like quite an alternative guy. He told us about using listerine as sanitizer and went on about CBD oil. He even put some on our necks where he says all the nerve endings are. I am not sure what I was supposed to feel, but when we got back to the boat, I had lots of energy and the boat got a good spring clean.

We had heard that people here stop and offer you lifts if you are walking. Maybe it was because there are three of us, but nobody stopped. I did enjoy the walk though!

I decided that the boat needed a clean. I started in Laura’s cabin and found black mould on her hatch (window). She mentioned that there was some on her shelf. I had a look and was horrified. I immediately got the vinegar out and started a deep clean. I have a feeling we have found the source of her problems. 

A few hours later the boat had been cleaned with vinegar water, dusted and swept to within an inch of her life. Hopefully Laura’s spots will go now!

Andrew and I did a few trips in the dinghy to get water. On the way back on the last trip we got wet as the wind had come up, whipping up the waves into a white capped frenzy. But at least the tanks are full and the blue jerry cans on the deck are too.

After phoning Matt for his birthday on Wednesday, 26 June, we upped the very muddy anchor and headed out into the ICW again. It was going to be a long one of 30nm so we wanted to get going quite early.

There wasn’t much wind, so we motor sailed. We spoke to Matt again at around midday when he was opening his gifts. It was really hard not being there. But the upside is we, hopefully, will be in SA for Christmas. 

That night we anchored way off the ICW and had to make our way through a mine field of fish/crab pots to get there. It was quite rough and we were bounced around quite a lot.

The following morning we headed out, once again watching for crab pots. They were quite organized, in lines with a gap in between. 

Storm brewing

Andrew has bought and downloaded something called Bob's Tracks. It shows you the exact line to follow in the ICW. There is a magenta line on the chart plotter but that has been known to take you into very shallow water. Bob's tracks is brilliant. We had been using it since the beginning of the ICW. We got back onto Bob's track but found that the track we are following was not in the channel. We missed a crab pot by centimeters and continued to watch out, dodging more as we went along. Finally they seemed to stop and we were able to relax.

On the way, in the Alligator River Canal, Andrew called me up to the cockpit. He could see something in the water and thought it might be an alligator. We had been looking out for them and hadn't spotted one yet. I got the binoculars and saw that it was a black bear swimming across the river! Incredible. By the time we got to the spot where he went ashore he was long gone!

Andrew had been talking about Coin Jock for a while and wanted to stop there. It has a dock on the side of the ICW. No marina to worry about. He phoned and booked a spot for us. 

When we arrived we docked without any issues. It was quite expensive at $130 per night so we only planned to stay overnight. I must say it was nice not to be rolling all over the place. 

Once we had tied up and Andrew had been to the office to pay, I gathered all the washing and found the laundry. It was the smallest room ever! There were two washing machines and two dryers. The one machine was being used and the other one was broken! I waited around for the owner of the clothes to come and remove them from the washing machine. He finally came to get his clothes. I mean, what is the policy? Do you take the clothes out and place them somewhere, hopefully clean when the machine has been stopped for 15 minutes? I was going to give him another five minutes and then he appeared.

We bumped into him again a bit later when he was going to take his clothes out of the dryer. He was from a monohull which was moored just in front of us.

The following morning we got chatting to him and his wife again. We were planning on leaving at 8am after the dock hands arrived for work, thinking we would need help. After watching Bruce and his wife get off the dock with no problems, we decided to do the same. And thank goodness we left when we did!

We had lots of bridges to get through. Most of them had to be opened for us but were only opened on the hour or half hour. We missed one by about 5 minutes and had to wait for the next opening. The grumpy bridge master would not wait at all for us. 

The current was taking us closer to the bridge and Andrew had to go astern several times to avoid being too close! The next bridge only opened on the hour, so we had to motor the 2nm very slowly. It was the longest hour wait of my life. 

The most interesting one was a lock. They opened the gate for us and we had to tie up on the port side. Then they let the water in. It didn’t feel like much. I think I was expecting a whoosh of water, which is stupid because if the lock was full of boats, we were the only ones there, then the boats would bash into one another. The gate at the other end opened and we made our way out. 

The next stress was a train bridge and right next to it, a bridge that closed between 3:30 and 5:30 - rush hour! 

When we got there bridge 7 was closed because a train was going through. The bridge master eventually opened that one. We made the next one with 10 minutes to spare! This one lifted up! It was really weird to see. 

We finally arrived in Norfolk at about 5pm. It had been a very long day, but an interesting one. We decided not to go ashore. There weren't many places to tie up a dinghy and some charged a hefty fee. Instead we watched the boats going back and forth. We also watched the T20 final which South Africa sadly lost.

Trump Supporter

On Sunday we set off for Deltaville, anticipating another very long day.