Sailing Calypso: Mustique

Dave and Andrew had long discussions prior to departure about the most favourable route to Mustique. It is not far from Bequia so one option was to head round the bottom end of the island, which might have been a bit of a beat, and the other was to sail round the top of the island and then we would have a clear run for Mustique. We finally decided to go round the top which turned out to be a risky option.

Before the Sh*^! hit the fan

We didn’t sail but motored for three hours until we finally got round the top. The current was so strong that we were motoring full tilt and only going 1 - 2 knots. Andrew kept telling me to stay on my heading and I kept telling him that I was but we were getting pushed off course! He took over the helm and couldn't believe how the current was pushing us.

It was quite scary at one point because the current was pushing us closer and closer to shore. Without the power of the engine we would not have been able to get away from the cliffs. We even considered turning around and going back down the coast and round the southern part of the island.

Still smiling

Thank goodness we eventually managed to get around the top and once there we were able to put up sails and with the wind on the beam, sailed down to Mustique. Did you know that Moustique is French for Mosquito? Thank goodness there weren't too many on the island.

Entering Mustique

Mustique from the mooring field

The ferry came in and stayed for the weekend

Mustique was bought in the early 1950’s by Colin Tennant for a mere 45 000 pounds. It started out as a sugar and cotton plantation. By the time Colin bought it, it was just a cotton plantation. It had no roads, no running water and no jetties.

Colin Tennant

He brought his wife, Anne, over from England and they spent many years trying to build the cotton industry up again. The first time she went to the island Anne had to scramble through Manchineel trees to avoid a bull in the vicinity and shower using a bucket with holes in it. Colin was an eccentric man who loved throwing lavish socialite parties. He loved living here but eventually had to start selling off plots of land to cover expenses. Thus, Mustique for the rich and famous was born. Anne was a good friend of the Queen and Princess Margaret, when they were small. She was Lady in Waiting for Princess Margaret for almost 30 years. Colin gave Princess Margaret a piece of land and her house was the first house built on the island. She and Anne used to sit and watch the sunset at Basil's Bar. If you are interested in reading about Anne and not only her escapades on Mustique, but also her time spent with the Royal Family, read the book Lady in Waiting.

Turtles can be found everywhere

It is a beautiful island run by the Mustique Company which Colin started about 10 years after buying the island. He wanted to preserve the beauty and simplicity of the place. Properties are restricted to 120 houses, there are only two hotels and four restaurants. There is only a small aircraft airport and space for only a ferry at the ferry dock, thus preventing huge jets and cruise liners from entering the island.

We had to pick up a mooring ball, which costs $85USD for 3 days. When we asked the mooring guy who was staying here, anybody famous? He said that it’s quiet now, but you never know who you might bump into. Sadly we didn't see anyone famous. Apparently when there are famous people here, like Prince William and Kate and their kids, and maybe Mick Jagger, they close half the island and get very strict about cell phones etc. So we were grateful that it was quiet as we managed to see most of the island.

Fishing boats

Beautiful clear blue water

The beach is raked every day

While we were in Bequia we had booked a table at Basil's Restaurant for Laura's 25th birthday celebration but we ended up cancelling it. Sandy and Dave, whilst walking on the beach on our first day, met a guy who is an electrician who was working in one of the villas. He told Sandy that he has a personal chef who lives at the house who cooks the most amazing meals. Sandy asked if we could come and see the villa and would he cook a meal for us? He said he would speak to the chef. Next thing we knew, they had arranged for us to have Sunday lunch with them at the villa. More about that a bit later.

Waiting for our tour outside Basil's Bar

Live music can be heard nightly

Enlarge to see the menu and price in $US

We decided to do a tour of the island. It was only an hour but Jonny P, the driver, was quite knowledgeable about all the houses and who lived where.

Calypso at anchor

We saw Mick Jagger and Bryan Adam’s houses. They live next door to each other. Bryan Adam's house is apparently quite rustic and when the tide rises quite high, the water goes right into his house.

Mick Jagger's on the left. Bryan Adams' on the right

A few other famous people, like Tommy Hilfiger and Shania Twain have houses here and plenty of the rich and famous rent houses for holidays.

Can't remember whose house this is!

The Cotton House

Tommy Hilfiger's house

Prince William, Kate and the kids rented this property

We found our house

The island is beautifully maintained. There is no rubbish lying around at all, the verges and gardens, albeit jungle like, look well kept. The beaches are a bit of a disappointment. One beach was full of sargassum weed, and others were very rocky. Not nice to swim in or sit on.

Sargassum covered the sand

Siobhan, Dave, Laura, Sandy and Jonny

Jonny pointing out Mick Jagger's house

Andrew pointing out Bryan Adams' house

The Post Office

The Police Station

After our tour we walked back up the road to The View and had a drink there. We had been told that food was reasonably priced but it was 55EC for the chicken and 75EC for the fish. We decided it wasn’t worth it so we left.

It has a good view

When you get to a place called The View and they have Wi-Fi

Photo time

Beer with a view

On the way back to the town we found a short cut, so we didn't have to risk life and limb walking on the steep road.

Spotting the tortoises

Dave and Andrew wanted to watch the rugby final, so they sat under the trees and streamed it.

Rugby with a view

Sandy, Laura and I went into one of the boutique shops, which was beautifully cool. We got chatting to the lady working there. She gave us the Wi-Fi password and let us sit there for almost an hour. The clothing was beautiful and also beautifully priced! So no purchases were made.

The Purple House Boutique

It looks green but it's actually purple

The Pink House Boutique

We had heard so many good things about The Sweetie Pie Bakery but every time we went there it was closed! We eventually managed to get some almond pastries and a loaf of sourdough bread on the Monday morning. They were not cheap but very good.

The best bakery

One has to check prices wherever you go on this island as some shops have Eastern Caribbean prices (EC) and some have US dollars. Basil's Restaurant had everything in US dollars. The supermarket didn't have prices on everything and we had to keep checking the price at the till, much to the consternation of the check-out lady!

Main Road

Laura had a lovely morning of her birthday with lots of messages on Facebook. We phoned Matt and Kay so that they could see her opening her presents and wish her well. We had managed to buy her a dress and some earrings in Bequia.

Happy 25th Birthday

The turtles came out to play on the morning of Laura's birthday. We also saw lots of fish during our morning snorkel. The water was so beautifully clear and warm.

Basil Charles is just as interesting as Colin Tennant. He grew up on St Vincent and was injured in a motorbike accident when he was in his early 20s. After spending over a year recovering he moved to Mustique and met Colin Tennant. Colin gave him the job of barman in the hotel, Cotton House, where Basil was very successful. On the basis of this success, Colin opened a bar on the sea front and put Basil to work there, naming it in honour of its proprietor, Basil's. In 1981, several people, including Princess Margaret's son, tried to buy the bar. They had grand ideas of converting it to a private club for the rich and famous but Basil succeeded in buying the bar himself. Basil sold the bar to The Mustique Company a few years ago. He owns the Mustique general store which sells fine liquor and cigars and Buttercup House in Mustique, which can be rented. He is also the owner of Basil's Bar Kingstown, located in St Vincent. He started the Basil Charles Educational Foundation which is an organisation that gives back to underprivileged children in St Vincent.

Buttercup House

In the garden

Basil's front door

At around 12 we made our way ashore to meet Renato, the Italian electrician, who took us in a buggy to the Heron Bay Villa. The house wasn't set up for guests, but it was beautiful just the same. Google it to see the beauty of the rooms.

Front Entrance

Wow! What an amazing afternoon we had. Renato and the chef of the house, Cato, were amazing. Cato made shrimp for starters and steak for mains with a flourless cake for pudding. The presentation was amazing! They put a candle in Laura’s piece and we sang happy birthday.

Chillin' in the sitting room

View of the house from the pool

The owners of the house only stay in it about 2 or three times a year, they rent it out for vast sums of money during the year. The owners are Canadian and are in the mining industry.

Birthday girl!

Cato stays at the house full time with 3 other staff; a gardener, butler, and maid. Renato lives in England with his family, and has been employed by the owners to rewire the house. He had to be vetted by the Mustique Company before being allowed to work here. He left his wife and kids back home in England. He had only been on the island a few days and was missing his family terribly.

View from the deck

The deck where we had lunch

Prawn starter

Steak!! and mashed potato with veg

Delicious

Dave, Sandy, Andrew, Renato and Cato

Delicious dessert

I love this pic

Relaxing after lunch

Andrew and Dave took Cato and Renato for a sail on Dave’s boat and left Sandy, Laura and I at the house. We washed the dishes in the air conditioned kitchen and then had a swim in the pool.

Happy girl

On the same level as the pool, there was a bathroom and shower. On the other side there was a braai area with tables and chairs and fridge to keep the drinks cool. There was an ice maker in nearly every area including the sitting room! A sailors dream - sailors gold!

Pool Bathroom

Pool shower

The house is very well designed. There are various sections to the house so that when the owner’s kids come with the grandchildren they each have their own section and they can be totally separate if they want to be. The owner has a huge room downstairs overlooking the sea.