BVI - Part 2

We have been to so many beautiful places and islands that they all start blurring into one. When we arrive at a new place I usually send Matt a video and he says they are beautiful but they generally all look the same. Yes, at first glance, they do, but each place is slightly different with different things to offer, whether it is the quiet solitude of an uninhabited island, or the bustle of a busy bay, they are all beautiful and I am so grateful that we are able to explore them.

Reading a very interesting book

We left St Thomas Bay on Virgin Gorda and headed for Lee Bay on Great Camanoe Island. We went through a beautiful passage between Great and Little Camanoe before arriving at the secluded bay. 

It's not often I can stand on the bow while under way

Making sure it was deep enough

Beautiful houses - what a view

Private beach

We went quite far in leaving a fancy boat anchored further out in the bay. Jim managed to find some sand to anchor in and we dropped on some rocks and although it was noisy, we managed not to move. 

Looking out the bay at Guana Island

Goats grazed on the slippery, sheer rock face 

We spent three nights anchored here with a couple of boats coming in and disturbing the peace. Laura did some SUP-ing and Jim taught her how to get back on the board. Thank you Jim!! She tried to stand but her balance is not fantastic and she falls off. But she loves it and it is good exercise even if she is only on her knees.

Leaving Lee Bay - I do drive occasionally

Our next stop was Monkey Point on the southern tip of Guana Island. Again, the guidebook recommends it as a day stop, but we dropped anchor behind the mooring balls and spent a couple of nights here. During the day the charter boats come in their droves, pick up mooring balls, go for a snorkel, and then head off again, but at night it was just Bully and Calypso enjoying the peace and quiet.

Having been off the grid for a good few days, we needed to stop off in Trellis Bay, Beef Island, to stock up on fresh food. 

Not sure how you're supposed to use that dock

The guidebook says that it has a wonderful market with an excellent selection of fresh vegetables, but we found it to be sorely lacking. The meagre vegetables were expensive and I didn’t feel like spending that much on carrots that could bend 90° without breaking. We did buy a cabbage and Andrew bought Coors Light Beer at vast expense! A man will all he can to find beer, no matter the price!

 

I think this place perks up at night with the restaurants and bars along the shoreline attracting the charter boats, but it was very quiet on the afternoon we were there.

 

We hurried back to Calypso, upped anchor and headed off. The great thing about the BVIs is that all the islands are so close together. We rounded Beef Island and decided it didn’t look suitable, so we went across Sir Francis Drake Channel toward Cooper Island. We decided not to go in to Cooper Island as there were a lot of boats moored where we wanted to be. So we hopped over to Salt Island instead. 

We arrived in Salt Island Bay, on, yes, you guessed it, Salt Island, and dropped anchor near the old, derelict jetty. We weren’t too happy with our position as we were too close to the lee shore and we weren’t absolutely sure our anchor was set. There was a massive sailing boat anchored where we wanted to be which left later in the day so we upped anchor and moved over to the north side of the bay.

Big ship where we wanted to anchor

Broken jetty

The water was so clear and the bay was not busy, I snorkelled from our boat to the shore.

 

We spent a few nights and days anchored in this big, beautiful bay in almost perfect solitude. One morning we walked/hiked past the salt pans up the hill to the other side of the island. There are two derelict houses on the island which is completely uninhabited. 

Beautiful view

The only inhabitants are the four-legged kind

The island has three salt ponds which used to be an important source of salt for the passing ships. The island no longer has anyone living on it although fishermen do come to fish off the island.

Foamy salt on the water's edge

Hiking in our slip slops again!!

All the way up the hill

It was a long way up!

Overlooking the salt ponds

Sea on the right, salt pond on the left

Overlooking Salt Island Bay on the left with a salt pond on the right

This rock formation on the edge of the bay looks like a lion

Calypso and Bully with Lion behind

We could see the mooring field where the wreck of the Rhone is.

Jim heading over the edge

Wreck site

 

Later the same day we dinghied around the corner and dived on the wreck of the Rhone. 

 

The story of the R.M.S Rhone is an interesting one. Two ships, Rhone and Conway were lying alongside each other outside Great Harbour, Peter Island, taking on cargo and supplies for their return trip. Although it was a beautiful day with clear skies and calm seas, both captains were watching the barometer fall as the day progressed. Thinking that it was merely as storm passing through as hurricane season was well past, they allowed work on the ships to continue. As the barometer continued to fall and the skies darkened threateningly, they decided it would be best to move to Road Harbour, Tortola, where they would be protected from the northerly gale. 

 

Sadly, it was not just a northerly gale that was heading straight for them. The first blast of the hurricane hit at 11am, causing some damage to both boats. Both captains decided to move their ships during the lull at noon.

 

It was decided that the passengers on the Conway would be transferred to the unsinkable Rhone before the Conway set off for Road Island. Captain Wooley, on the Rhone decided it would be best to head for the open sea.

 

The Conway managed to get away but was caught by the tail end of the storm and had its funnel and masts blown away before being driven onto Tortola Island. The Rhone’s anchor was caught on a coral head and the ship could not move. The captain ordered the 1 360kg anchor and 9100m of chain to be cut loose. The anchor can still be seen on the seabed in Great Harbour, where it was left.

 

The Rhone had taken too long to get away and while trying to head out to open water, the ship was struck by the second blast of the hurricane, pushing her onto the rocks on Salt Island, where she broke in two and sank instantly. Of the 145 souls on board, only 25 people survived. The dead were buried on Salt Island.

 

One can dive on the wreck, but we only snorkelled over the top of it. It was quite eerie seeing the remains of the huge ship below the water and thinking about all the people who died on the ship while swimming over the top of it.

Our next stop was Peter Island where we anchor far too close to shore! And then on to Norman Island where we visit the famous Willy T. 

In the next installment we explore more beautiful blue water bays and do a bit more walking!!