Sailing Calypso: Spanish Virgin Islands

We had a lovely sail to Culebra in the Spanish Virgin Islands. Once we arrived, Andrew got onto the Roam App to check in. This time we didn't have to go in to the office.

Dinghy dock we didn't use

Ben, on Kintaro, dropped anchor next to us. Later that evening he came over to our boat for a sundowner. He said that he had received a 12-month cruising permit for the USA via email, for free. Andrew hadn't seen an option to get one, so the next day phoned customs and asked about it. The lady said that he needed to go into the office to enquire about it.

Kintaro

We had found a dinghy dock in the cut which was far more protected from the swell than the public dock. Although we had to walk along a canal past a chicken coop, we were happy as it was also a shortcut to the shop.

Tiny supermarket

Ferry Dock

Leaving our dinghy there, we walked the 2 or so kilometers to the airport. The young man who was on duty was very helpful and friendly. He said it was the first time he was on his own in the office so he had to call the boss when he wasn't sure what to do. The short story is, because we are a South African flagged boat, we do not qualify for a cruising permit, because SA does not have reciprocal relations with the USA.

Even though the humans on the boat were checked in and did not have to pay anything, the boat had to be checked in and we had to pay $37. We were then told that we had to come back when we were leaving to check out, and pay another $37. We weren't very happy with this development, but there is nothing you can do but hand over the cash!

The weather was not good while we were there. There was a strong wind and the bay was very choppy. The conditions were not suitable to leave the bay as the seas were big. We ended up staying on the boat most of the time and didn't see much of the island.

Every time we went ashore, we got soaking wet on the trip back. We were also worried about boats dragging. We had watched one charter boat as he tried to anchor in three different places before finally deciding not to anchor on top of everyone else.

One stop shop that was never open

Barber shop

Airport

We had accumulated rather a lot of washing, so while Andrew went back to Customs to check out, I did some washing at the laundromat. It only takes quarters and cost $4. I could not work out how to put the coins in. I tried every permutation, except the right one. Thank goodness a lady came in to collect her laundry and she went to call the owner at the bakery next door. He came in and told me I had to put two quarters in each slot and one in the last one. I would never have thought of that! Felt super silly!

Andrew took ages at Customs. Apparently they weren't there when he got there and then it was back and forth about what was the right thing to do. Eventually they agreed that he had to pay another $37 to leave! He was told again that we must report to the next port. This is going to be an expensive business if we need to pay for every port! Bear in mind that Culebra is a municipality of Puerto Rico. In our minds, we were already checked into the country. I wonder what would have happened if we had never enquired about a cruising permit?

After a few days, the wind had abated enough for us to leave. We set sail for Isla Palominos which is a tiny island just off Puerto Rico. It is a bit of a party island during the day, with charter boats and small craft ferrying people to and fro. But in the evening it was beautiful. There were only a couple of other boats with us for the night.